We talk a lot about traceability in the textile sector and especially in fashion. It's as simple as pulling the yarn from a woolen jacket to go the reverse route: store, finish of the garment, production, dyeing, weaving, yarn, fiber and origin of the sheep. Here we are without real traceability there is no sustainability. And inevitably, without knowledge of all the social and environmental characteristics of the entire chain, we go directly towards greenwashing.
With love and work, everything is accomplished. Textile manufacturers have always cherished this traceability, not for environmental or social sustainability, but for quality. Pure logic at the service of the most demanding requirements: you can't spin a fiber you don't know, you can't weave yarns without knowing their characteristics of resistance, tension, etc. ; you cannot dye a product if you do not know the nature of this fiber because even from the same raw material there are differences. For example: not all cottons are the same.
Therefore, traceability in manufacturing has always been exhaustive for product quality reasons. If problems arise in production, it is necessary to know what happened, so it is essential to ensure traceability. If during production a problem arises with the material I must be able to know if it is the supplier, the manufacturer or the customer who provided me with the raw material? It is very important, even for legal questions: Reach , international codes, origin, attributes and if vicissitudes appear, you have to know how to untangle the skein to know: how, who and why, etc...
So what is the problem with traceability? The problem lies in the lack of structure. Traceability is lost in the narrowness of organizational charts and in the fleeting and rapid relationships between purchases and sales, especially with regard to fashion, this accuracy in recent years has been hollow and there are more and more (legal) requests and investments to know all the manufacturers and the origin of the raw material.
We should be able to develop a product standard that involves traceability control, have well-defined methods and scopes, traceability teams, commitments from internal teams and suppliers, internal or external checks and above all a distribution Powers: supply chain control and purchasing must be at the same level and should be independent.
Currently, traceability also needs to micro-encapsulate this yarn with indicators that show sustainability attributes, so the end customer knows what they are buying. In this way, the consumer can be aware of key elements such as: decarbonization, use of resources, the social situation of those who worked on this garment and know to whom he gives his power with his capital in order to intertwine responsible consumption.
In the future, it is expected that this information will be mandatory by law, an international consumer agenda will harden and at the same time we will need other legislation from different countries, which will promote: industry 4.0 and big data. Control systems, harmonization and robust methodologies, separation of powers in purchasing and control, quantification and qualification and finally, standardized labeling that frees us once and for all from greenwashing, etc.
You can see here the traceability study done with BCOME on Atelier Murri products (HERE)